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GX SLINGSHOTS
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Slingshot Safety
Don’t risk it. Always wear them.
We’d love to not have to say it, but we can’t refrain.
Please always wear safety glasses. No matter what your target, always put the glasses on.
No matter what you may have seen (even pros forget or get sloppy sometimes), remember those glasses all the time.
And make sure your glasses are properly rated. ANSI Z87.1 rated glasses are available at Simpleshot and are always recommended during shooting.
Be safe!
To see our whole collection of articles and videos, visit simpleshot.academy.
A fork hit occurs when the projectile strikes the slingshot frame. It is easily avoided by learning proper technique and improving release.
Folks who insist on shooting the heaviest bands possible while learning generally have more issues with fork hits. This is due to the fact that the resistance of the bands is so great that the pouch and projectile is snatched from the fingers without allowing the user to see and feel if the pouch tension is uneven combined with not keeping the frame properly aligned during release. This is one of the reasons we recommend that folks learn their shooting technique using lighter weight bands.
Muscle memory that reinforces bad habits is tough to correct down the road.
Perfect practice makes perfect!
To see our whole collection of articles and videos, visit simpleshot.academy.
The lanyard on any slingshot is an essential piece of safety equipment.
When drawing a slingshot, the same amount of energy stored in the bands to propel the ammo is also stored in the slingshot with the energy directed toward your face.
We don’t say this to scare you.
We say this to remind you to always wear the lanyard. No matter how strong you are, if you were to drop the slingshot during full draw, the slingshot would be headed back toward your face. Not good.
Safety first!
To see all of our educational articles, visit simpleshot.academy
Overall Slingshot Questions
Need help determining which slingshot to buy? No problem, we can assist with choosing your first slingshot.
First, don’t overthink it! Yes, we have lots of slingshots but they really do grow on trees, so if you are unsure if you want to spend a little money on your first slingshot, you can always make your own.
If that is not to your liking, we always recommend the Scout slingshot. The Scout has gotten thousands of folks up and running in this affordable and fun sport. Whether you are a seasoned veteran or just getting started again in the sport, The Scout slingshot provides a stable and adaptable shooting platform. Just check out all the reviews…thousands of happy shooters can’t be wrong!
We offer slingshots that are good for hunting and target shooting. Any of our slingshots can be used for both.
Any of our slingshots can be used for target or hunting. Choose the style that you prefer.
Target vs hunting comes down to the bands and ammo used on the slingshot. We offer a full line of bands matched to the ammo size you want to shoot. Check them out here:
All DIY – Product categories – (gxslingshots.com)
The bands that come stock on our slingshots are matched to 9mm steel ball ammo and are sufficient for feathered game or target shooting.
Let us know if you need help with a recommendation.
Why is a SimpleShot slingshot better than a wire frame tubular slingshot I find at big box stores?
Simple, modern design and manufacturing matched to modern latex. Quick attachment, pocketability, ease of use, low draw weight with high velocity, and 100% made in the USA construction.
Just to name a few.
Prior to WWII, flat band slingshots without wrist braces were the norm. Surgical latex tubing was a product developed during the war that was repurposed for slingshots after the war as there was a stockpile available. The surgical tubing certainly sent a projectile down range with considerable force. However, it was heavy to pull and was difficult to manage with a traditional Y shaped slingshot. Add to that it was difficult to attach to surgical tubing to a Y shaped frame. The result was that the wrist brace style slingshot, commonly referred to as a Wrist Rocket, was developed to take advantage of this readily available surgical tubing elastic. The wire frame slingshot was inexpensive to produce and the thick, heavy tubes contained more material which lead to them being able to withstand long periods on store shelves without quickly degrading.
Today, not much has changed in the world of big box wire frame slingshots.
- The tubes are very heavy and not well matched to common slingshot projectiles.
- The thick and heavy tubes are made to stand the long waits on store shelves so that when a user finally purchases one, the elastic still functions….for a while.
- Once the bands do fail, there is a lengthy process required to get shooting again, and even with a replacement, the tubes are generally too heavy for efficient shooting.
- Finally, wrist braced wire frame slingshots are bulky and don’t lend themselves to being carried on your person comfortably.
So, long and short… SimpleShot slingshots are better than wire frame slingshots in that they shoot faster and harder with less resistance, provide for quick and simple band changes, and provide for an easy every day carry
To see all of our educational articles, visit simpleshot.academy
Which slingshot should I choose? Which slingshot is the best?
Well, that is sort of like asking which child do you like best…
We shoot the products we make and sell. We would not offer slingshots that we would not use ourselves.
A few things to consider when choosing a slingshot:
- How do you hold the slingshot? If you prefer thumb supported models, check out the Scout, Torque, Axiom Ocularis, or any of our poly slingshots. If you shoot with a full pinch grip, the BeanFlip is a great choice. If you shoot hammer grip…look no further than the Hammer slingshot or Rambone.
- How big is your hand? If you have massive hands, the Rambone or Hammer are a great choice. If you have small hands or just prefer small slinghots, the Axiom Champ, Dead Ringer, and Axiom Champ Ocularis are good choices. Otherwise, an average hand will work with all of our slingshots.
- Do you prefer to shoot OTT (over the top) or TTF (through the forks)? Many of our slingshots will accommodate both.
- Budget: All the slingshots we stock are quite affordable but if you are looking to get started on a budget, the Poly lineup of slingshots is a good choice.
Still can’t decide? We are here to answer any questions you might have. Just give us a shout!
Slingshot Hunting
Allow me to start with there is no “best” (or “worst”) slingshot with the exception of poor build quality that is unsafe to use. Lots of shooters are amazing shots with “cheap” frames or tree fork naturals that cost them nothing to make other then time. What’s “best” is a matter of opinion to each individual shooter. This is because everyone’s hold hand/style is slightly different. What fits the hand best, is typically what shoots the best since its much easier to get the same hold consistently each time.
For band and ammo combos for hunting I can be a little more specific. Still there are several options that boil down to shooter preference alone. This is still very much a matter of individual preference sport. Please make certain that you are a good enough shot before attempting hunting.
Bands:
Some main things to keep in mind are shot placement is key. When slingshot hunting know that the energy will be lost over distance. What may be a capable bandset for out to 15m may no longer be adequate at say 25m, even though you can still hit what you’re aiming at. The outdoor air temps can dramatically change a bandsets performance. What may be good during the warm day may be too weak on a cold night. For my hunting bands I like to stick with latex in the .66-.8mm thickness depending on the time of year (the thicker used in the coldest temps). As far as tapers I like to use a 12-20 or a 15-20. The rest of them I make at in between 20-15 and up to a 25-18 (for my hunting setups not for target). Just remember the latex and taper being used will depend on the ammo size/weight being used (as well as other factors like the temperature). In colder temps a thicker latex may perform best and yet be totally awful when its warmer outside. All my hunting bandsets I shoot at a 570% elongation if it’s A 600% max. If not seeing the power you want and you can pull past your anchor point then cut some off. This can increase shot velocity dramatically. Difference in draw lengths will change a bandsets performance as well. Also, a longer draw can utilize a narrower taper.
Ammo:
It all works as long as it has enough energy and is put in the correct spot. A ton of preference here as well. I’ll try to be as brief but informative as possible.
First, I’ll cover lead ammo. Lead has the best transfer of energy due to its heavy weight but remember it’s toxic, harder to find these days, in some places illegal to hunt with, and way more expensive than steel. If not making your own then you can buy lead muzzleloader/black powder ammo round balls. The best sizes are .32 caliber up to .44. A .32 caliber round ball is 8.4mm and a .36 is 9.5mm and thus a very common one. The .44 comes in at 11mm.
Second, is steel ammo. Steel is lighter than lead but still very effective due to the higher velocity that can be achieved. Some really accomplished shooters choose to use 8mm steel ammo for hunting applications. Its even lighter weight allows for some very high velocities to be achieved. However, at further distances the light weight does not have a high enough amount of energy for hunting. For that reason 8mm IS NOT RECOMMENDED for hunting! The 8mm is very light and until ultra precision accuracy is achieved should NOT be considered as hunting ammo. The 9.5mm-12mm steel are the most common. If you have a chronograph, testing the speed and putting velocity into a ballistic calculator app will tell you how exactly how much energy your bands and ammo combo are producing at any given distance. A great tool for determining what your maximum effective hunting distance is or should be.
In summing up, I’d like to say that I personally start with a .66mm thickness or higher, with approximately a 20-15 taper and 9.5mm steel ammo as my starting point. This then may need to be adjusted from there according to suit personal needs or wants. As a general rule, you want to have enough power to be able to put anywhere from a rip to a hole in a steel soup can. Remember those are the U.S. style can and that can strength does vary greatly.
Hunting with slingshots is fun and challenging, but not legal everywhere. Know your local laws before you hunt with a slingshot.
Yes, slingshots have been responsible for putting many a meal on the table, and the challenge of hunting with a slingshot is addictive.
Hunting with a slingshot requires considerable skill and respect for your prey.
It is imperative that you have sufficient skill to place your projectile in the kill zone and be capable of doing so with a band/ammo combination that generates enough velocity and energy to ethically harvest the prey.
Check out this video on ‘Hunting with Slingshots’ to learn more.
Can I hunt a deer with a slingshot? What slingshot can be used to hunt deer?
Deer can be harvested in states where it is legal to do so using the Hammer Slingshot/Slingbow. To ethically harvest a deer with a sling bow, you will need to use hunting weight arrows with broad heads.
To learn more about the Hammer Slingshot/Slingbow click the button below
Slingshot Bands and Equipment
What should I choose, flatlands or tubes? Which is more powerful?
Both can be equally powerful when tuned to the users draw length and projectile
However, flat bands generally retract more quickly and are easier to achieve higher velocities at shorter draw lengths. Conversely, tubes will generally last longer.
The key here is tuning your bands. Learn this critical skill and you’ll find the exact performance you’re looking for.
What is the relationship between band thickness, band taper and velocity?
The basics:
-Draw weight and band thickness are variables that change with the physical(cut or taper) dimensions of the latex in the system.
-Thinner latex is generallypreferred for lighter ammo and thicker for heavier ammo…but not always.
-Tapered bands shoot faster than non tapered bands- provided same surface area of working latex.
-Tapered bands generally have less draw weight for equivalent speed.
-All bands generate velocity by their ability to retract quickly to their relaxed position.
-Latex is able to produce this energy through the generation of heat. When band are drawn out, the internal friction produces heat and it is that latent heat that allows the material to snap back to its relaxed length. The warmer the ambient temperature, the less this effect comes into play. The colder the more this can be witnessed in performance loss.
-More draw weight does not necessarily generate more velocity. Bands must be matched to the mass of the projectile for best performance.
Check out the video in the attached article for a real world example of the above factors all working together.
Have fun and be sure to visit our education site at www.simpleshot.academy
Never shoot worn bands. Safety first.
Learn how to look for, identify and consistently notice signs of band wear. Slingshot bands unfortunately don’t last forever. Learn how to find band wear to stay safe when you are shooting.
To see our whole collection of articles and videos, visit simpleshot.academy.
Looking for custom made bands and bandsets?
We do not offer custom made bandsets. However, we offer a full line of slingshot bands made to be matched to a specific size projectile. Check them out here:
We do not tie custom bandsets, but our standard lineup of bandsets can meet just about any slingshot need you may have.
Although we do not offer custom band sets, we offer a wide variety of pre-made bandsets suited to just about every ammo size and application (target practice, hunting, and everything in between). Additionally, we offer bulk DIY material to make your own band sets, including latex strips in various tapers, leather pouches of various sizes and materials, and even a DIY Jig to help you get started tying your own band sets. We’ve also made various videos discussing the specifics of band-tying, which you can view on our educational website here.
All bands wear out and degrade over time.
However, if you are seeing nicks and tears in your bands, especially close to the pouch, you are likely having fork strikes and are unaware of it. Upon release, the projectile is smashing the elastic against the frame of the slingshot, causing the telltale signs of fork hits.
One very common cause, however, is shooting rocks. If you are shooting stones from a band set that has a pouch made for spherical projectiles, it is quite easy to ruin a band set in just one shot!
This problem is actually easy to avoid and until you correct your technique, you will continue to damage your bands prior to wearing them out from use. Check out these videos for lots of info on shooting rocks.
All bands wear out, tear, and get holes in them with use. Take good care of them for the longest life.
First of all, it’s important to understand that every bandset WILL have a different lifespan.
Here are a few of the possible variables:
- active band length
- draw length
- environment
- material
- the slingshot to which they are attached
- projectile
- technique
- and most importantly, how you care for them
So, that said (you see how there’s NO set number of shots you’ll get, right?) 👊
(Some tournament shooters change bands between every round on a Spanish knockdown!)
We generally say that 300 shots is a good rule of thumb for flatbands.
Some real world examples:
- If you shoot your bands at an active band length exceeding 5x elongation, you will see a decrease in band life.
- If you allow your bands to be exposed to UV, ozone, or petrochemicals, they will break down faster. Pure latex breaks down faster than a latex formula like our SimpleShot Black.
- If you choose to shoot stones or irregular shaped projectiles, you may (it’s almost certain, honestly) nick or cut your bands while shooting, thus decreasing lifespan.
Long and short….your bands will wear out whether you use them or not. Latex contains natural proteins that are degrading constantly.
- In order to keep your bands fresh and last as long as possible, store them away from UV light, chemicals, and ozone when not in use. If you keep your bands in a cool dark place when not in use, they will serve you much longer than leaving them in your car on a hot day or next to your electronics. Think of it this way….bands are a consumable just like bullets for your gun.
- In order to keep shooting, you will need to replace your bands regularly, just as you would need to buy more bullets for your gun.
To see all of our educational articles, visit https://simpleshot.academy
Looking for powerful or heavy bands for your slingshot?
The first thing to consider when looking for powerful bands for your slingshot is your ammo size. If you are shooting light ammo, heavy bands WILL NOT necessarily lead to a faster shot! Your bands must be matched to your projectile for best performance. Check out this article to learn more:
We offer our bands in categories that are matched to the most common size projectiles. To learn more about how to select the best bands for your ammo, check out this article:
The long and short of the story is that if you want to shoot really heavy, powerful bands accurately, you need to understand the following:
- Heavy bands don’t shoot light ammo faster
- Heavy bands hide bad form with your release. If you don’t have the pinch strength required to make a clean release, you will only miss your target faster and develop bad habits.
- Bands should always be matched to the projectile you intend to shoot for best performance and accuracy.
- More is not necessarily better!
Still not convinced…check out this video for some slingshot science!
If you still insist on buying the heaviest bands we offer, our Nitro Double Layer bands are what you are looking for.
Good question.
Most bandests are graded based on steel ammo, so here are some helpful basics for glass marbles or lead shot:
12 – 15mm glass marbles, choose the 9.52mm or 11.11mm size bands
.32 – .36 cal lead balls, choose the 9.52mm or 11.11mm size bands
.38 – .45 cal lead balls, choose the 12.7mm size bands
All these bands can be found here:
All DIY – GX Slingshots
Looking to shoot butterfly, albatross, or extended draw? We have some answers.
We do not offer bandsets for butterfly shooting. This particular style of shooting is NOT for the novice and can involve injury if not done properly. We want you to be safe and have fun. If you want to learn more about butterfly style shooting checkout the Slingshot Forum.
Are your bands hitting your hand after the shot? We can help with that!
Are the bands hitting you in the knuckles when the shot is let off? This can be avoided, and yes, it can be painful and irritating.
Hand slap is the result of the bands being too powerful for the projectile and is most common when the bands are mounted in the OTT or ‘Over the Top’ orientation.
This is easy to fix! Either lengthen your bands, shoot a heavier projectile, or shoot lighter weight bands. Hand slap happens when the bands cannot transfer their energy into the projectile efficiently. If the ammo is too light or the bands are too heavy, the bands travel forward of the slingshot frame and then retract back into your hand. Check out the following videos:
and for some laughs, check this one out!
Slingshot shooters must know their band materials.
Various elastic materials can be used to make great bandsets, such as our proprietary SimpleShot Black Latex, TheraBand products, natural gum rubber, and Linatex. In this quick tutorial, Nathan goes over the most popular materials for slingshot bands.
To see all of our educational articles, visit simpleshot.academy.
Looking for spare bands for your Scout, Hammer, Torque or other SimpleShot Slingshot?
If you need replacement bands for your SimpleShot slingshot, just click on the button for each model.
For the Scout, Hammer, and Poly slingshots choose the “General Purpose” here:
Replacement bands for Scout Hammer and Poly
For the Torque, the stock bands are the ‘Small’ size in ‘2040’ found here:
You can also choose your bands according to the size of projectile you shoot. All flatlands are grouped according to ammo size. Check out all of our replacement bandset assemblies here:
Do you want to shoot rocks out of your slingshot? Choosing the right bands for shooting stones is important!
Just about anyone who has shot a slingshot as a kid, probably shot rocks. They are readily available and provide a solid THUMP when they connect with the target. However, there are some important things to keep in mind when shooting rocks.
Make sure the slingshot you are using to shoot rocks with is suitable for shooting rocks with! You will want a wide fork gap. Natural fork slingshots are perfect for this!
Choose the correct bands! Not all bands are made for shooting rocks. You will need an oversize pouch for holding irregularly shaped stones and bands that don’t over power the rocks in flight. When rocks fly too fast, deflection of air over their uneven surface can cause the projectile to veer in flight.
Consider the weight of the rock! Picture it this way… a 3/8″ or 9.5mm steel ball is much lighter than a .374 lead ball. Even though the .374 lead ball is 9.5mm as well. Like with ball ammo, it truly depends on the density of the stones that are being shot as to what taper and thickness is best. A lighter sand stone may be fine with one taper, however, a denser stone of the same size that taper may not be enough. Even worse yet is having bands matched for one weight rock and shooting a much lighter rock with a now increased speed which is likely to cause a unintended flight path thus striking a unintended target.
If possible, walk around the area picking up stones of the like you will be shooting and then compare their weight to the recommended ammo weights for different tapers and thicknesses of latex. This is the best option for making a bandset for rocks in a particular area you visit often.
If making your own bands specifically for shooting rocks than you can always cut a wider or narrower taper. You can even do double layered bandsets with the .7mm thickness. The .7mm thickness would be fine as it is a little more versatile. You can also go with the .8mm and a narrower taper as well though. Please remember to not try and overpower rocks as it can cause you to hit unintended objects due to flight deviation.
Finally, select rocks and stones that are roughly spherical and have few sharp edges. Creek beds, beach stones, and landscaping gravel is a good choice. Be sure the stone fits inside the pouch completely! Remember stones hitting bands and rubbing the latex on their way thru the fork can cause band failure to occur quite rapidly. Be sure to keep a eye on bandset wear.
Our bandsets are named according to the ammo size they will most efficiently shoot.
Slingshot bands are most efficient when they generate the ideal amount of energy to propel the ammo used. Larger ammo requires more and/or stronger elastic material to be propelled efficiently, and vice versa for smaller ammo. Using a chronograph, we have tested every band set style imaginable and determined the most efficient one to shoot each standard size of spherical ammo (BB, 1/4″, 5/16″, 3/8″, 7/16″, and 1/2″). Therefore, rather than having to figure out which band set taper/width you want, all you need to know is which ammo size you want to shoot.
Slingshot Ammo
Yes, shooting BBs is an excellent and inexpensive way to hone your technique. BBs can be shot from any slingshot with the appropriate bands.
The key with BBs is not to overpower the projectile.
Ultra lightweight bands and a pouch made to shoot BBs are required. Simple Shot offers dedicated BB band sets and slingshots. Our BB flatbands utilize TheraBand Blue material, as well as black surgical tubing for our tubular BB band sets.
Buy BB Bands here
Learn more about the BB bands and how you can fit them to your slingshot here:
Choosing the right ammo is important for best success and accuracy. Learn more about how to select your slingshot ammo here
Spherical projectiles are the most preferred and most accurate ammo you can shoot. The best ammo can be steel balls, lead balls, or marbles. Shooting a spherical projectile provides the shooter with the most consistent and repeatable accuracy.
Try the Simple Shot Steel ammo and find your sweet spot. We offer 6.35mm”, 7.95mm, 9.52mm, 11.13mm, and 12mm steel. You’ll love experimenting with all these ammo sizes! Or just choose your favorite ammo size and stock up. Remember to get you bandsets that match the ammo size!
To see all of our educational articles, visit simpleshot.academy
It’s not that you can’t shoot stones from a slingshot, but our slingshots come equipped with pouches optimized for spherical projectiles.
Attempting to shoot an irregular shaped stone using a pouch designed for smaller spherical projectiles is a recipe for fork hits, damaged bands, and unhappy slingshot shooters. Who wants that?
Check out our videos below on shooting stones.
If you wish to shoot stones, try using a band set combination made specifically for shooting stones like our RockChucker bands or Rock Star Pouch.
To see all of our educational articles, visit simpleshot.academy
Slingshot Performance
What about the 45º hold with the frame hand?
Your draw length is an essential piece of information to know when trimming your bands to maximize their efficiency.
1. Attach a piece of string to your slingshot where the bands tie in.
2. Slide your fingers along the string to your anchor point, “drawing back” the length of string.
3. Measure the length of string.
This length is your ‘draw length’
Knowing your draw length is critical to measuring your active band length, with is essential to accurately tune in your bands.
To see all of our educational articles, visit simpleshot.academy.
I want to shoot the most powerful bands available. Can I do that?
I want to shoot the most powerful bands available, can I do that?
Sure, you can shoot really heavy bands but it is important to keep in mind that heavy bands don’t always translate into a faster shot.
Heavy bands require heavy ammo to be efficient.
Otherwise, the projectile will not have enough mass to absorb the energy from the bands and the left over energy is wasted….and if shooting OTT you will find it to be very uncomfortable due to ‘hand slap’ (watch it happen here).
For best performance, one should always match the bands to the ammo. Slingshots are not like bows….heavier does not necessarily mean faster. Furthermore, shooting very heavy bands covers up any inconsistencies in your release and can lead to learning bad habits unintentionally.
Start with lighter bands and work up to heavy bands and ammo. You will be glad you did because missing the target with more velocity is still missing the target.
Still not convinced? Check out this video for some slingshot science…
To see our entire catalog of educational articles, visit http://simpleshot.academy/
Do your bands seem sluggish or not powerful? You need to tune your bands for best performance.
Your active band length is the length of the bands or tubes from where they attach to the slingshot to the pouch.
This length is determined by dividing your draw length by 5. To learn how to measure your draw length, go here.
Example: If you determine that your draw length is 30″ your active band length is 6″. 30÷5=6 or 6″.
This is the sweet spot for most elastics. If you shorten beyond a factor of 5, you will see an increase in velocity at the expense of shortened band life. Likewise, if you increase the active band length, you will see a drop in speed with an increase in band life.
To see all of our educational articles, visit simpleshot.academy.
Which is better? OTT and TTF refer to how the bands are attached to the slingshot.
OTT or ‘over the top’ refers to a slingshot with the bands attached to the top of the forks.
TTF or ‘through the fork’ refers to bands that are attached to the sides of the fork.
Neither is necessarily better than the other, it really comes down to personal preference. A few things to keep in mind: When shooting TTF, the projectile is actually traveling between the forks. As such, a clean release is necessary or one may encounter fork hits. If you have a ‘flip’ style shot, it is wise to only shoot OTT.
The Ocularis™ Banding System is the only system available today that allows for fast switching from OTT to TTF. Literally five seconds is all it takes to convert. Just turn the plug and dial in your shooting style!
Learn more about the Ocularis System here
To see all of our educational articles, visit simpleshot.academy.
When it comes to shooting clay, you have a few options:
- The 7.93mm steel bandset will shoot clay with the longest band lifespan and is perfect for catchbox shooting.
- The 9.52 steel bandset will shoot clay with about as much velocity as you can get. The clay will burst on contact with anything hard (this can be a lot of fun) and will shoot fast and straight.
As ALWAYS, tuning your bands is the key!
Start with your bands long (for low elongation / power) and shorten them (increasing elongation / power) until you find that sweet spot for you.
Underpowered clay is boring.
Overpowered clay is not accurate.
The 11mm bandsets can be used at a low elongation, but with clay, too much power is no good.
If you’re overpowered, they’ll fly fast, but erratically. Clay shot with too much power will bend in flight and will NOT be accurate. Overpowered clay will fly all over the place.
Be careful to not overpower clay.
Slingshot elastics send the projectile down range based on how quickly they can retract to their relaxed state
When a slingshot band is drawn out, internal friction creates heat within the bands. It is this latent heat that allows the bands to retract to their relaxed length quickly. When the ambient temperature is below 60 degrees Fahrenheit, this latent heat is quickly dissipated and the result is that the bands do not retract to the relaxed position as quickly and thus a loss of velocity.
This problem is further compounded by holding at full draw for an extended period of time.
During cold weather, keeping your bands warm by keeping the slingshot in your pocket or close to your body will help. As will stretching the bands a few times before your shot to warm them up…and most importantly, don’t hold at full draw when cold out.
To see all of our educational articles, visit simpleshot.academy.
The Hammer: Questions
Do all Hammer parts fit each other?
A common question we hear is:
“Does the new Hammer XT Head fit my original handle?”
The answer is YES!
The beauty of the Hammer is that it’s a platform for building your slingshot. All parts are interchangeable. If you have a Hammer part, it works seamlessly with the others due to our patented attachment system!
The Hammer Sling bow will shoot most full length arrows well. For best performance, we recommend carbon arrows in the 400 spine range. We suggest you shoot full length arrows at the standard 787mm-812mm stock length. If you have a very short draw length, you may trim them shorter. If your draw length is 711mm or longer, DO NOT trim the arrows shorter.
Most big box store sporting goods sections offer full length carbon arrows. You might also check in with your local archery pro shop.
The Handle – XT or LT?
✅The XT handle is built for the most power.
With the integrated wrist brace, you can pull back heavy bands.
✅The LT handle is build for small size.
Still accommodates hammer grip, but the handle is much smaller and does NOT integrate with the wrist brace.
NOTE: If you want to shoot arrows, choose the XT handle.
The Head– XT or LT?
✅The XT head uses FlipClips or single-strand tubes.
FlipClips attach practically any bandset with a turn of a screw.
The tapered holes in the XT head allow the use of single strand tubes.
One head converts between slingbow and slingshot mode.
✅The LT head is compact and uses Ocularis plugs.
Ocularis plugs are a super-simple attachment method accommodating OTT, TTF and everything in-between.
LT heads are built to be EITHER slingshot or slingbow.
Bottom line:
XT handle is for power
LT handle is for small size / pocketability
XT head uses FlipClips
XT head shoots single-strand tubes
LT head uses Ocularis
DIY Home Projects for Slingshots
Try cutting your own bands. It’s a great way to experiment with rubber and find your favorite bandset.
Want to try out lots of band combinations? Want to learn all about bands with a hands-on approach? All you need is a rotary cutter, a self healing cutting mat, a ruler, and bulk band material. The rotary cutter, mat and ruler can be purchased at any craft store. Check out this video on how we recommend cutting bands
Making your own slingshot from a tree fork is quick and simple. All you need is a saw, pocketknife and some time.
Yep, slingshots actually grow on trees! When you think about slingshots often Dennis the Menace and Bart Simpson come to mind. Those two icons chose the simple tree fork slingshot and it worked well for them. In fact, many top shooters can shoot a tree fork slingshot as well as a production slingshot.
The great thing about slingshots is that they are affordable and easy to make.
Check out these videos to learn more and make a bunch of slingshots for you and your friends.
It doesn’t get much easier and quick to make a target catch box for your slingshot. All you need is a cardboard box, an old t shirt or towel and you are good to go.
You made the choice to start tying your own bands… *That’s Great!!!!*
Making or tying your own bands is the best way to get the most enjoyment out of the slingshot sport or hobby. Maybe a little frustration too while learning but that’s okay. We are here to help and will answer what we can. Like most things in this hobby, there is a best for individual shooters and not always a best in the market. I may like one brand/style of hold, latex, ammo, or frame and another shooter not able to use it and I not able to shoot theirs. Even though each of us with are own setup can be top shots.
So what pouch is best?
Well, the real answer is… its kind of complicated and a bit technical.
Unfortunately, it’s not always the pouch you like the looks of most or the one you want it to be. Rather it should be the pouch that you shoot the best. Yes, you can like one and not shoot it well. Without naming any brands there are a few pouches I like the looks of and/or the feel of, but, I do not shoot them well. This can simply be down to we all have different types of skin. Some of us have rougher hands and some smoother. There is also one of the tiny pouch designs I absolutely hate the feel of but yet it shoots so incredibly well for me, but only with 5/16″ or 8mm ammo. The bottom line is you just have to try them to find out the best combo for you. The most important thing to keep in mind is the size of the ammo you will be shooting. Too small of a pouch and the ammo can pop out too early. Too big and the pouch can catch air like a sail or parachute which can reduce velocities.
Bonus tip!
Different pouches weigh differently according to the material they are made from and their thickness. Keep this in mind when trying a new taper and you get handslap. A lighter or heavier pouch may eliminate that handslap completely. Thus you are able to keep the taper you like with only changing a pouch. It is best to have a selection of pouches on hand that way you can try different combos.
